MARRIAGE PLANNING – Bangles
Who will buy these delicate,
bright Rainbow-tinted circles of light?
Lustrous tokens of radiant lives
For happy daughters and happy wives. - Sarojini Naidu
Bangles are ornaments worn mainly by women on their arms and wrists. They are usually circular in shape but unlike bracelets, are not flexible. In India, the custom of wearing bangles by women is centuries old and the tradition is still going strong. Modern age women love to spruce up their outfit with flashy and ornate bangles.
Depending upon her community, her marital status and occasion a woman could wear a single piece of ornament, or cover the entire upper arm, from the elbow to the shoulder, with armlets made up of a variety of materials including gold, silver, ivory or shellac.
As with other jewelry, bangles are worn by women of all ages all over India and are made of silver, gold, wood, glass, and plastic, among other materials. But married Hindu women always wear gold bangles teamed with glass bangles in her wrist. Folklore says that gold bangles herald prosperity and well-being for husbands.
Tradition of Bangles in India
The tradition of wearing of bangles in India began in ancient times. And, even today, womenfolk love to enhance their feminine grace and beauty with the help of bangles that are available in variety of forms
History of Bangles in India:
There are strong evidences that shows that women have been adorning their arms with bangles since ancient times in India. One of the oldest art objects in India, the bronze figurine of a dancing girl excavated at Mohanjodaro epitomizes the antiquity and the universality of wrist ornaments in India. The figurine stands in the nude with one arm at her hip, the other arm completely weighed down with a collection of bangles. Even the Yakshinis are depicted wearing bangles. Banabhatt's Kadambari has a reference to Goddess Saraswati - Goddess of Learning, shown as wearing kangans.
Ancient fragments testify that bangles were made from terracotta, stone, shell, copper, bronze, gold, silver, lac, glass and almost any material that lent itself to craftsmanship. From simple plain circlets of metal, to ones decorated with etched and exquisite designs of bird and animal-head terminals and studded with gems, bangles in various forms existed in ancient in India.
Significance of Bangles for Married Women:
Wearing of bangles is considered must for a married woman in India. These are considered to be an important part of Indian bride's jewelry. In certain communities, there is a custom which says that gold bangles should not be worn alone by married women and should be teamed with glass bangles, popularly known as 'kaanch ki choodiya', as it symbolizes well-being of husband and sons. In some communities women are so superstitious, that even when changing bangles, they never allows their arm to be completely bare. A simple string or even the end of her sari is wrapped around the arm, until the new set is worn. In certain communities, widows are not allowed to wear glass bangles.
Tradition of Bangles in West Bengal:
While most married women in India wear gold bangles, married women in the eastern state of Bengal wear a pair of white color shakha (shell) and paula (red coral) bangles as a symbol of marriage.
Tradition of Bangles in Punjab:
In the state of Punjab, bride wears a set of ivory bangles called chooda on each hand for 21 days, or a year after marriage, depending on family tradition.
Tradition of Bangles in Rajasthan:
Rajasthani woman wears ivory bangles from her wrist to her upper arm as jewelry of gold for the rest of her life or till her husband is alive. This tradition has become obsolete in present times.
Tradition of Bangles in Contemporary Times:
In present times, women, in spite of their marital status adorn their arms with bangles that are available in various types and styles as they believe that wearing of jewelry after marriage or before marriage has no relation to their husband's age. Hence, these days, bangle or bracelets are worn by fashion conscious girls with as much style as their mothers and grandmothers wore as part of tradition.
Types of Bangles
There is a huge variety of bangles available in India. Given here is a short description of the different types of bangles popular amongst women in India.
Bracelets:
A bracelet is an article of clothing or jewelry that is worn around the wrist mainly for ornamental purpose. Bracelets can be made of cloth or metal, and sometimes contain rocks, wood, and shells. Bracelets can of various types including bangle bracelets, expansion bracelets, cuff bracelets, beaded bracelets, charm bracelets, spiral bracelets and link bracelets. A large number of boys in India, too wear bracelets in the wrist for glamor purpose.
Bangles:
Bracelets that are in solid form, usually some metal, without clasps or closures, are referred to as bangles or bangle bracelets. They can be smooth, textured or set with stones. In India, glass bangles are common. Made from ordinary glass that is about 1/4 - 1/8 inch in width, they are worn in groups so that arm movement causes them to make a pleasant tinkling sound.
Kanghan:
Kangans are essentially a variety of bangle but is much thicker than an ordinary ring type bangle. Many a times women wear a kangan on both sides of the set of bangles that they wear in each arm. Ornate kangans can also be worn singly when a person needs a minimalistic look. A huge variety of Kangans are available in gold, silver, brass, metal, wood, lac besides other materials. A sleek round kanghan called kada is also worn by men.
Baju Band or Arm Bands:
Since ancient times, women in India have been decorating their upper arm with ornate arm bands. Unlike wristlets, the armlets or bajubands need to be shaped in such a way that they remain in position through pressure. For this structural requirement, most armlets are made by suspending one or more talismanic pendants on a string or attaching to a strap which can be tightened and knotted as per the wearer's requirement. In several communities, amulets strung on a black or red thread are often tied to keep the evil eye away. Arm bands look great with sleeveless or short sleeved dresses.
Expert's Advice on Bangles
In present times, bangles are available in large number of styles and patterns. So much is the variety that ladies find it difficult to select that perfect set of bangles that will most gracefully adorn their arms. Given here are tips from beauty experts to help you select most appropriate set of bangles.
Tips for Selecting Bangles:
For a perfect semblance, take care that bangle design should match your earring and necklace design.
A stylish armband can be worn if you have chosen to wear a sleeveless or short-sleeved dress, as this will highlight you upper arms. You also have wide range of Kadas, choodis and bracelets to adorn the hands.
Those looking for a minimalist look, just have one piece of bracelet on your wrist.
For a total ethnic look, mix and match glass bangles with the color of your dress and with other Kadas. Keep jingling bangles to capture the attention of everyone!
If you wish to try something unusual on formal occasions, you can go in for "haathphool", which is a bracelet with rings attached with chains.
Terracotta bangles look fantastic when complemented with block printed cotton saris of appropriate colour. Silver bangles would also look great if matched tastefully with your sari. For a different and ethnic look, one can also try wooden bangles.
Process of Making Glass Bangles:
You must have been fascinated with the intricate and colorful bangles, but do you know how these bangles are made?? Here we shall discuss the interesting yet complex process of making glass bangles.
Processing the Raw Glass:
Raw glass for bangles is of the same material as prepared for other glasswares, which is taken out of the furnace through the pipes. Without removing the pipes, the molten glass is beaten to make its dimensions equal.
After this, the glass with the pipe is placed in an another furnace which has an automated roller. When this molten glass comes in contact with the roller, it starts stretching like a thread and rolls around it. In this process a spring of glass is formed. To make separate bangles, this spring is then cut with the help of a cutter of diamond. But, at this stage, these bangles have two ends, which need to be joined. Usually, this job is taken up by separate units.
Judai:
The open ended bangles are given to the contractor, who takes the material to the workers for the joining process. Traditionally, this process of joining of bangles is termed as 'Judai'. Workers doing joining or Judai use simple chimney of kerosene connected with the air input, generated by simple air compressor, locally known as 'Pankha'. In one unit, as many as 15 to 20 chimneys are connected with one air compressor. Whole of the set-up is hand made.
Sadhai:
The joined bangles pass through another process popularly know as 'Sadhai'. In this process, joints of bangles are made to look neat and straight. Here, the glass is made to melt. Application of little pressure joins both the ends. The job of sadhai is usually accomplished by women workers.
It may be noted that a large number of people are engaged with the work of Judai and Sadhai of bangles to earn their livelihood. These processes in itself forms another industry in the city of Ferozabad, the hub of glass bangles in India.
Decoration of Bangles:
Next step is the decoration on the bangles. In this stage a bangle may pass through almost ten to fifteen hands before it is deemed fit to appear in the market. There are several ways of decorating a bangle depending upon the requirement of design etc.
Making of Kada:
To make a Kada or kanghan (a type of bangle) sometimes, several bangles are joined together through melting over a flame. Later, with the help of a thin glass stick, designs are drawn on it. Sometimes, engraving is also done on the bangles with the help of rotating grinders.
Making Multi-Color Bangles:
The process of decorating a bangle may be very different in case of making of multi-colored bangles. Like, for the coating of Zari, hardener and resin is mixed in equal quantity, making a paste, which is then applied on the bangle. After this, the bangles are collectively rolled over the Zari powder. To give a color to a white bangle, color is sprayed over the bangles through air compressor. Mostly young girls are employed for this process.
